Argentinian Patagonia

Day 3: Fly to El Calafate/ Bus to Perito Moreno Glacier I Get to the smaller Jorge Newbery airport and realize they're going to make me check my bag for my 5:15AM flight. Forgot that the local discount airlines tend to do this. It's a 3 hour flight to El Calafate. My decision not to bring a travel pillow and to use my packable down sweater as a makeshift pillow is becomingly increasingly obnoxious.

Upon arrival, they have to screen every single bag for fruit or other food because of the sensitive Patagonian environment. This takes a while... I have a Schilling Hostel shuttle waiting for me for 150 pesos i.e. $8. I get to my hostel by 10AM and my room isn't ready, but I store my stuff and take my daypack. I'm planning on going to see Perito Moreno glacier at 1PM (there are only two departures a day, one am and one PM) so I go kill some time down at Pietros Cafe in town. It's a short walk, they have wifi, and the omelette hits the spot.

Off to the bus station, also less than a 10 minute walk. It's 90 minutes to the glacier (~$30) and it's a pretty scenic route. I start listening to Modern Romance by Aziz Anzari to which I am literally laughing out loud much to the dismay of my bus mates.

Getting to the glacier, I finally get what I came for. My brain turns off, my to-do lists evaporate, all anxiety is gone, and I just stare in awe. There's an hour and a half self-guided hike that includes a stop for whiskey with ice from the glaciers. Count me in.

Afterwards I'm sitting on a bench watching the glacier and I hear "Hablas Ingles?" "Si" I don't know what gave me away as American, but I make friends with Scott, a Canadian dude that owns an MMA gym in Halifax. Admittedly, the introvert in me was really enjoying my time with the glacier, but after realizing I should have at least one conversation with a human a day, I carry on and find this one to be very interesting. I get back to the hostel around 8pm and unpack my stuff and head out in search of food. (Side note: This Hostel is the coolest place I've stayed in Argentina) The airport shuttle driver had told me La Zorra has the best beer in town and the front desk guy had noted they also have the best burger. Sign me up. It was one of the best burgers I've ever had. The food here is going to be the death of me. My new friend, Canadian Scott, joins me for beer and we agree that the craft beer here is amazing - must be the water...

Day 4: Bus to El Chalten I take the 8am bus to El Chalten (~$30) which takes 3 hours. First lesson of the day: the buses have assigned seats so if you want a window you have to ask for one. Upon arriving, the arrivals desk recommends I not hike today and wait until tomorrow if I can due to weather. I hadn't really planned for that, but it was freezing and drizzling so I didn't object.

El Chalten is the youngest town in Argentina, built in 1985. There's a lot of construction going on and most of the roads are dirt so not a lot to do. I checked into my hostel Infinito Sur (~$90/ night) and realized this may be the fanciest place I stay. I head next door to a surprisingly nice restaurant, La Tapera, and order soup and salad. They bring out homemade bread with pumpkin spread and I wonder "is Argentinian cuisine the best food I've ever had?" Second lesson of the day: portion sizes are insane. My salad is clearly intended to serve a table of 8.

I wander the streets a bit and find a sign that says SPA. Now that sounds delightful. The sign says it's closed until 16:30 - ah, the Latin siesta, I forgot. I go kill time drinking craft brew across the street at La Vineria. this is Becoming a theme. When Spa Yaten opens, they let me know they only have a masseuse once a week from a nearby town. Not sure what I was expecting. But out of boredom and curiosity, I let them talk me into a massage chair. I need human hands to get the knots out of my back, but this was cheap and relaxing and they served me like a queen. Cool.

I go back to the hostel and shower in cold water because i cant figure out how to get it warm. Eek. Then I head to the place on the corner for dinner, Techado Negro. Even though I know at this point how slow the service is on this continent, it still surprises me. I had my first Patagonian lamb and was completely lost on how exactly you are supposed to eat it. At one point, I was eating it with my hands like ribs. Judge me.

Canadian Scott messages me to tell me there was a transportation strike and he couldn't get to the campground he planned to go to so he ended up in my town. Excited to have a friend again, I go meet Canadian Scott and a Brazilian ex-journalist turned Craft Brewer for a drink at La Cerveceria. (Note to self: making friends is cool.) After a few beers, I run back to the hostel before they lock me out at midnight.

Day 5: Hike Mount Fitz Roy I was really intimidated by this day. I don't think I've ever hiked 20 km. Certainly not alone and in a foreign country. But I was told this was a must see so I had to do it. I don't google the details because I really don't want to know. Ignorance is bliss.

Headed out at 9AM, I pass the place Canadian Scott is having breakfast and he runs out and gives me a good pep talk. Did I mention he guides international hiking trips and he's here researching his next one? The pep talk worked. I'm smiling and ready to go.

Kilometers 1 and 2 were uphill. "City Legs" Megan was very worried how I would do all 20. It's cloudy and I can't even see this beautiful mountain I'm supposed to be hiking to. Thankfully, kilometers 3-8 are a breeze and pretty scenic. I realize I hadn't even totally committed that I would make it the whole way. At this point I'm so close. They had said it would take 4 hours to the top and I'm at 2 hrs 40 minutes. Either I'm a beast or I'm missing something.

I start the treacherous Laguna de los Tres for the last km and quickly realize why this is such a difficult hike. It's not merely the distance, it's the elevation climb at the end. I've stripped off 4 out of 5 layers and I'm climbing up these rocks with all 4 appendages. After trying to find religion on the side of this mountain, I reach the first peak. I say first because you're not there yet. You think you are, but surprise, further you must go.

There aren't any signs at this point and there certainly aren't park rangers so I briefly wonder if I could die on this mountain. The clouds have cleared and I can see the incredible Mount Fitz Roy peak over the next ridge and I know that must be where I'm going. I finally make it and I'm completely without words. My broken legs and feet don't matter anymore. I sit on the shore and eat the sandwich (emparedado) the hostel packed for me and it's one of the most content and accomplished moments I can recall having.

Knowing it's going to take me 4 hours to get back down and the sun sets at 7 and I'm not entirely sure I haven't pulled all the muscles in my right ankle, I turn back down the mountain. The return trek goes by much more quickly with my newly found confidence. In a moment of clear mindedness, I think I decide to enroll in grad school in the fall. When I get to the bottom around 5:30, I book it straight to La Wafleria for waffles and a Supay cerveza. If there is any food that is synonymous with mountains, it's waffles. Feeling on top of the world, I go back to the spa and get a $9 foot massage. What a deal.

Day 6: Back to Calafate After breakfast at the hostel, I catch the 11:30 TAQSA bus back to Calafate. I have nothing better to do this Saturday than some R&R. I FaceTime with my folks and try to explain where in the world I am. I don't think they got it.

Despite my vow to never go to the same place twice, I go to tried and true Pietro's for some reliable internet service and start writing this here blog. Feels pretty cathartic I must admit. I finish over beer at La Lechuza and call it a night. I'm off to Chilean Patagonia at 7:30AM tomorrow morning.